Homeland Comforts

Back barely ten days in Chiang Mai, and I'm settled in, The sheer joy of flying directly into Chiang Mai without having to navigate Bangkok is a nice reward after an excessively long journey of ~20 hours total. That comes courtesy of China Air at the best budget price for the US market.

Being in the "States" wasn't all bad...just a significant portion of it. Unfortunately it was the portion I couldn't avoid, i.e., the simple 'raison d'etre' for the trip itself. The good news, however, is that I did accomplish all the necessary details to resolve the originating issue. I didn't have the same good luck with some of the side issues.

One thing I had hoped to do was to go through those things I still had stored with various family members. I was able to access a lot of it, but not everything. Specifically, I could not get to three trunks I had stashed in Oregon in my niece's garage. They were blocked by an overwhelming collection of who-knows-what. Worse than the proverbial 'Fiber McGee Closet." To get to them I needed help that I could never get cooperation on. Malish! Nevermind that they were chock-a-block full with some of my long-time treasures--some things just weren't meant to happen.

The slightly over ten weeks I spent in the US were confined to the West Coast, namely Oregon and California, with an emphasis on the latter. I traveled to Oregon shortly after I arrived in country, driving up with my niece who lives in LA. I had a nice visit for three days in Portland with a dear friend and her family, followed by a frantic week of sorting through boxes, nick-knacks, documents, old letters, and the global souvenirs of my nomadic life.

After that it was back to California where I spent two weeks with my brother in San Diego. He is in the process of incorporating his business and wanted to put me on the books as major stockholder and CFO. With the current chaos in the econimic sector, assuming the much maligned title of CFO seemed highly appropriate.

I took a break from that and rode Amtrak up to San Jose for a short visit with my nephew and his family in Saratoga. That proved to be a peaceful interlude interacting with the kids, working jigsaw puzzles, and a day trip to San Francisco (my favorite US city dating back to the wild and whacky '60's) to go to coffee with a friend.

Back to the Southland with another week or two in San Diego to finish up all the business matters, interspersed with short stretches in LA (West Hollywood). The advantage in LA is that my niece lives in a lively area where I can walk to everything I need and encounter interesting characters along the way. My San Diego brother lives in North County. True suburban California living in a subdivision that is far from everything and literally without local transport. Pedestrians are rare enough to potentially cause alarm and I was totally dependant on my brother for getting around.

Along with visiting friends and family, I put some focus on food and entertainment. As good as Thai food is, there are certain things that I miss like cheese, lamb, raspberries and even some strange vegetables that many folks don't consider edible such as parsnips and brussel sprouts. As a special treat, my niece and I went for Ethiopian food in LA's famous "Little Ethiopia."

I saw a local production of "The Crucible" with my friend in LA and over indulged in old reruns of Law & Order. My niece turned me on to Dr. House reruns, and she and her brother introduced me to "Cash Cab." What a kick. I'm not big into reality shows, but this one I'll make an exception for. It was great fun.

Sadly, I didn't connect with all the friends I had hoped to see, but it was time for me to go and I bid farewell, issuing everyone invitations to come visit in Thailand.

bpai Amerika

Dreams do get interrupted by reality from time to time. We can face up to reality or go back to our dream life--we do have that choice.

However, some realities require a face-off and just such a reality has cropped up in my life. Two negatives involved--family and finances; rates a double F! Enough said!

I'll spare you the details 'cause they suck, but don't change the fact that I am flying out to the US just in time to celebrate St. Pat's. Perhaps a dose of green beer and Irish stew will take some of the sting out of the trip.

ERIN GO BRAGH!!

Yes, even downers have a few ups. A full-on Oregon spring with crocuses, daffodils, azaleas, etc., is not a bad thing to experience. I'm well acquainted with them and they have a special spot in my heart.

But the real reward comes when I get to miss Songkran and the intense heat in Thailand that moves in this time of year, along with the air quality alerts from the field burning. For two years now I couldn't get away early enough to skip all that. So at least I'll be dry and breathing free come mid-April.

It's an open question whether I'll post to the blog while I'm away. It wouldn't qualify under "Catstayshome" now would it? It's "Cattravels" but not really. In a category all by itself, so the question then is, "Would it require a new and separate blog?" Maybe I could post one of my old rants on Songkran and pretend like I'm there.

Whatever... I'll be back soon. Chiang Mai is always calling!

Holiday Happenings

A "Triple Crown" event for me this week. Over the weekend it is the Chiang Mai Floral Festival followed on Monday by Makha Bucha Day (Magha Puja), when the monks and the faithful pay homage to Lord Buddha with a candle light procession (wian Tian) at the wat. There was a floral parade Saturday morning with a program, including a beauty pagent, in the evening at the Three Kings Monument.

Then at weeks end, it is time for Khun Meow (that's me, 'meow' being Cat in Thai) to sign in with immigration. Now that I'm on the retirement visa I no longer have to leave country to renew my visa every two months. For a while I took advantage of the requirement to explore a lot of contiguous countries, but it gets tiresome after a while to be on such a confining schedule.

Now the only requirement when I am in country is the 3-month sign-in ritual. I think there is a way to do it on line, but living in Chiang Mai, going to immigration is no big deal--a nice variation on my daily routine. Get there early, sign the book and one can be through quite quickly. This time I can even do double duty while I'm there and get my re-entry permit as required with my visa should I chose to leave country. I can travel anytime I want on this visa as long as I get my re-entry permit before I leave.

This cycle, my sign-in date is 14 February...Happy Heart Day! Been reading in the international news about all the backlash in some countries against the celebration of Valentine's Day. Bad for the morals they claim! Good thing I'm not writing from India or Saudi Arabia or I might have to worry that the government would take down my blog for just hinting that I might celebrate, but this is Thailand and there's nothing "lese majeste" (literally, injury to majestry) about Valentine's Day. Only lese majeste brings on the censorship here.

However, 14 February this year comes on a Saturday and immigration will be closed, so I get the distinct pleasure of showing up on Friday the 13th. And a big BOOOOOO to you!

Way back in another life I was known to celebrate this auspicious date. As a committed counter-culture person back in the Medieval times referred to as "THE '60's, lots of strange events took place. (Didn't Dylan once say "If you remember the '60's you weren't there."?) I may not remember all of it, but I do remember that my friends and I used to celebrate any number of oddball things. Living in San Francisco, earthquake predictions were a favorite excuse for a party as was any random Friday the 13th. Dress up like a black cat and go BOOGIE.

So this year I guess I'll just put on my red and black to cover both celebrations and go sign the immigration book, thankful that I am in Thailand living well, where everyday is a potential party. There are too many festivals here to even keep an accurate count.

New Directions

It is now one week since my new President took office. It has taken me a week almost to come back down to earth. I still pinch myself occasionally to make sure I am really alive to experience this historic transition.

As the glitter and glitz subsides, I pause to take in all the joy that I am feeling. But amidst the jubilation as the events of this past week unfolded, a lot of us were prone to weepy-eyed moments.

Being a 60+ Scottish-English-American growing up in the US post WWII, I was young, but concerned and impressionable during what were Americas "halcyon" years. We were strong and we were good. We helped liberate Europe to defeat the evil scourge of Hitler. We could stand tall and say we were American.

Unfortunately the years of my youth were punctuated with dark moments. McCarthyism swept the country when I was in elementary school and I observed the concrete evidence of the damage divisive hate campaigns can do on a country's psyche. Naive as I was, I could nonetheless feel the pain of this country I was growing up in.

My adult coming of age coincided with the civil rights movement and my first political involvements were the protest marches in the '50's and '60's. I was a beatnik and a folkie, infused with the idea that through community action common people can make a difference for good.

So it should come as no surprise my seminal moments of last week's amazing events. At the inauguration itself, it wasn't the crowds and the electric charge of the moment, but rather the sobriety of the images of the Tuskegee Airmen and Representative Lewis in the audience that brought tears to my eyes.

Tuskegee Airmen, the first black military group during WWII, who flew with distinction and then returned to their own country only to fight continued racism and bigotry. They were equal in death, but not in life.


Representative John Lewis of Georgia, one of the early group of Freedom Riders, the inter-racial group who in 1961 boarded buses in the north destined for the south, with the whites sitting in back and the blacks in front. Brave men and women testing the reality of the Supreme Court decision that in 1946 declared racially segregated seating on buses to be unconstitutional. They faced angry mobs, fire bombs, beatings, stoning, and the full wrath of Bull Conner's Jim Crow.

All of the music was top rate, and, yes, I loved Aretha's hat, but the most memorable moment of the 4-day period preceeding the official inauguration came on Sunday at the We Are One Concert. I was momentarily saddened that Odetta didn't live to sing for the event, but Pete was there for her.
Yes, that grand icon of folk music himself, Pete Seeger. He is the embodiment of what America can be at it's best. His whole life has been a tribute to the very things that the Obama Administration gives promise to--unity, hope, sanity and justice--the re-enfranchisement of an entire segment of America.

Black listed durng those dark McCarthy years, he never gave up believing in the true spirit of the country. That wonderful 89 year old minstrel voice of the people singing Woody's signature song, This Land is Your Land" sent thrilling chills down my spine.


Yes my new President's speech was better than good; it was fantastic. Yet it is not what he says, but what he stands for that fills me with hope and inspiration.

If our nation can come together and work as one, the outcome will always be, "YES WE CAN!" With the true spirit of "Yes We Can," there will always be HOPE!

Visa News

This close to the holiday season seems an appropriate time to be "making a list and checking it twice." However, it's not Santa who's perusing this list, but yours truly, as part of my newly established immigration ritual to prepare for my visa renewal. Nothing "naughty or nice," just prolific.

Mostly it's just a checklist for a gazillion copies of relevant passport pages (I'm at five currently) plus bankbook copies and an official letter from my bank dated within the current week. This last item is of particular interest as they are keen to see that you have money in a Thai bank--it's that transparent. You make a money commitment and the reward is that you get to stay. Since this is my third year now, I know the drill.

After collecting this pile of documents, the final touch is the one known locally as "Riap Roy." This officially translates from Thai as "presentable." Things like, are you dressed respectfully and in my case is your long hair pinned up.

Last year I had a friend query me on this issue. My Thai is not good still, but last year it was really bad and I thought he said "Rob Roy." "Did I go in looking "Rob Roy?" Now the only "Rob Roy" I know is a cocktail made with bourbon and since I don't like bourbon, I think they are nasty, but I jumped to the conclusion that he was asking if I went in drunk. What a strange question!

There was an added component to the "Riap Roy" issue last year, as the sister of the King died and my immigration appearance was during the official mourning period. I needed to wear somber and sedate black to show proper respect, so I had to go out and buy a long black skirt. It has now become my dress of choice for visa application visits. Intensely "Riap Roy."

So bright and early Wednesday morning I presented my "Riap Roy" self to the Chiang Mai Immigration office out near the airport. The Songthaew driver motioned for me to sit in front so he could put to the test my meager Thai. I have a time window of a few days leading up to my current visa expiration, so I picked Wednesday hoping the crowd would be thinner mid-week. My theory proved wrong and I compounded things by signing in the wrong extension book when I arrived. Who would suspect there could be so many categories of extensions.

Arriving early before any windows were open meant I was #2 signing in. Summoned to window #4 soon after they opened I got the bad news that I had to sign the other book at window #2. Now it seems I am #7, which means a longer wait time. So, even with all my documents in order I didn't get through as quickly as in the past. But the approval went without a hitch. I'm legal and in good standing for another year.

Quirky Quests

Resolutions for the New Year are so passe, so 20th Century. What everyone needs in this 21st Century to begin the New Year is a good Quest. Something tangible to strive for. It doesn't have to be a compelling "Holy Grail" sorta thing. No worthiness required, just a desire to seek and find.

An important criteria for a successful quest is the belief achieving success. As long as there is the glimmer of hope that the quest focus is not out of reach entirely, a quest can be exhilarating.

Last year I was handed the gift of a quest, so to speak, from my sister. When she heard I was traveling to Mongolia she asked me to look for a replacement "Mongolian Wedding Ring" for her. She got one when she was there five years ago and it was stolen recently. She was so excited that I could replace it for her. She was almost afraid to ask me, but when I travel I love to explore and look for things I might never see otherwise.

This year again I had my quest handed to me in the absence of what I had come to believe was my 'right of Christmas', the gift of a calendar. Over the years I frequently get wonderful calendars for Christmas gifts, and besides, if I have to get one for myself, they'll be half price in January. I only have wall space for one. No sense in jumping the gun.

The last three years I have been particularly rich with respect to calendars. For two years I had beautiful wildlife calendars from Malawi, and last year I had the "creme de la creme" a Bob Marley calendar. I got to wake up every morning and say "Hi" first thing to Bob. What a great way to start each day.
But this year was a no-calendar year. Up to me to fill the bill--so here I am with an instant quest. Find the perfect wall calendar for 2009.

Here is where my quest met resistance as I began to lose hope that I could be successful. My first destination was the bona fide "Mall" that is a short Songthew ride from my place.

Sometimes referred to as "Central" Kad Suan Gaew is a collection of stores similar to any large western mall. I go there occasionally for farang (foreign) treats at the Tops Super Market. Why not explore the rest of the mall in my search for a calendar?

The complex is four or five stories high (I lost count) with a plethora of stores; heavy emphasis on electronics and knock off clothing. From what I saw, cell phones will soon take over the world. Every third store it seemed was awash with "electronic leashes." Calendars in general were scarce, but limited to desk-top, table-top or wallet varieties. No simple, functional wall calendars to be had.

As I bemoaned this fact later that day with my friends at Writer's Club, the suggestion was made that I go to my bank. I headed straight there only to discover that they were out of calendars. They had dispensed their full quota by Christmas. Brandishing my bank book around got me nowhere.

They suggested DK Bookstore, so I hit the pavement again and took off in their direction. DK is a large well stocked bookstore and I rushed along the moat heading there full of hope. Hope that was quickly dashed when I saw the meager selection available.

Once again, only desk and table top calendars were on display. But even worse, the visuals were totally limiting. I think it's time some enterprising soul here produces a nice calendar of Chiang Mai scenes. There are so many beautiful wats and monuments that could be featured to promote Thailand.

Time to accept defeat, pick out the best desk-top option and accept the fact that I was not meant to decorate my wall with a calendar. Next year, perhaps, but not in 2009!

Xmas Greetings 2008

Another year about to finish and that winter solstice celebration known by a number of names--I grew up with Christmas--followed by what many call New Year.

Living in Asia we have a shifting calendar of New Years. With several to chose from, we can celebrate accordingly.

For me, 2008 was a stellar year, but my scale may be different from others. Travel is a heavy determinant in my personal yearly ratings and once again, this year was a winner.

Trains have obsessed me since childhood, and with the exception of the interrupted stretch continuing on from Kazakhstan, I indulged in a train odyssey of my dreams. Up through western China, a month's stopover in Mongolia, on through portions of Siberia and then south to Kazakhstan.

A small glitch in the form of corruption at the Russian Embassy in Alamaty, Kazakhstan, required that I fly out to my next destination of Ukraine. From there, back to trains and on to visit friends in Europe. (The trip is posted on my companion blog: http://paka-cattravels.blogspot.com/.)

At the end, it was south through the Balkans to fly back from Athens. Over four months "on the road." What more could any travel-addicted nomad ask for?

Let's just say...Santa came early for me this year.

Wishing everyone a wonderful Christmas season and a Happy New Year!

May All Your Dreams Come True!

Politics & Protests

It's a done deal! As of Monday, Thailand has a new urbane Prime Minister. The Democrat coalition held up and their candidate, Oxford-educated Abhisit won. Many Thais are already referring to him as "Their Obama." He's young, he's educated and he's smart. He has a reputation for clean politics and heaven knows Thailand can benefit from that.

The yellow shirts prevailed, in spite of Potjamon's phone campaign and Thaksin's last minute video message at a huge rally held in Bangkok trying to destabilize the process, or in his own words, "create social dislocation." At the important moment, the opposition votes remained intact.
The Bangkok Post article stated that "...he brings to the job a mannered civility that has been sorely lacking in recent dust-ups." But that may not be enough. The red shirts are promising more protests. According to them, democracy has been subverted by a judicial coup d'etat.

Like America's Obama, Abhisit has a formable job ahead of him to try and unite a badly divided country. His support is strong in the south and central parts of the country, but "Thaksinmania" still prevails in the northern regions. The threat of more protests and the potential subsequent violence is enough that the army chief is planning a peace-making mission to those areas to try and quell the unrest. As everywhere in the world, money and power are at the root of things.

He takes office as the 27th Prime Minister in a country where democracy is still evolving. Those of us living here who are tired of the corruption that thrived during the Thaksin years wish him well and hope he can bring some stability to Thailand. Thais just want the rest of the world to move beyond the images of mass sit-ins and airport closures and once again travel to the "Land of Smiles."

Color Clashes

Friday, 5 December, 2008 was the 81st birthday of Rama IX, the longest reigning Monarch on Planet Earth, and perhaps, one of the most beloved for good reason. He is a stellar example of the benefits to a country under a conciensously good Monarchy.

But the celebration was muted from past years. King Bhumibol was unable to give his anxiously awaited yearly birthday message. His daughter insisted it was not serious, but the diagnosis sounded serious to me--bronchitis & esophagealitis. In the paper it said..."he couldn't eat." Not good news! We all pray that he will recover and be with us a lot longer.

Things have been a bit chaotic here recently with two Bangkok airports shut down. Dissolution of three political parties accused of voter fraud and corruption cleared the way for a new government and satisfied the demands of the PAD (opposition party). For the moment! Nothing in this political game of chess is certain.

Latest news today...Potjamon (ex-wife of Thaksin) flew in from Hong Kong. Does not bode well!

I avoided the election year color clash in the US simply by being in Thailand. Now I have my own color clash here. Across the ocean it was the red states and the blue states, and our President-elect Barack Obama did blur the colors a tad. Turned a few states purple--my favorite color. Can't wait until he's innaugerated.

Now here in Thailand we have our own color clash--red shirts vs. yellow shirts. Yellow is the color for the King who was born on a Monday, so that was the day of the week to wear yellow shirts and they were seen everywhere. Now with the take-over of the airports and the escalation of political unrest, it's not safe to even wear your yellow "I love the King" shirts. I miss not seeing the sea of yellow shirts on Mondays.

Red shirts are the color of choice for the supporters of Thaksin [UDD] and they are strong in chiang Mai province. The go around the old city here with bull hors and flags flying off the top of Tuk-Tuk's that quintessential Thai transport.

They did stop that once the airports opened. Unfortunately, nothing is resolved with the current political situation. Only a stalemate at the moment. As the Thai say, "jai yen" and that's all we can do...be patient, watch, listen and be flexible.

Thanksgiving Thoughts

On Thursday Americans celebrate their uniquely home-grown holiday.

Wan gii ngoo-ug in Thai! Direct translation...

Turkey Day!

All that gobble-gobble & pilgrim stuff.

As a child, Mom kept us busy on rainy Portland [Oregon] afternoons making new pinecone turkeys for her centerpiece. Helping make decorations for the table was as much a tradition in my family as the over indulgence on T-Day of favorite foods.

A big meal tradition in my family along with the proscribed menu of turkey, dressing, mashies and yams, were Mom's homemade rolls...preferably with homemade jam. Continuing that tradition here in the "Land of Smiles" I'll be taking them to dinner when I go to my friends tomorrow. There will probably be a later posting on that one.

On this day of Thanksgiving, I feel doubly blessed this year to have the marvelous new [smart] President-elect and the first family that we the people of the US recently elected. With each new staff and Cabinet selection he is proving he has a good grasp of what the country needs and how to bring it all together. As David Brooks entitled one of his columns last week, "Obama seems determined to justify hype." That's quite okay by me and like many others, I wish he could be sworn in tomorrow.

I am equally thankful that during this period of economic hardship I am in a country with a low cost of living that will allow me to continue living within my meager budget allowance. At this immediate moment I am pleased to be in peaceful Chiang Mai and not Bangkok where all the political nonsense is playing out. It helps to have a simple lifestyle, but it is comforting to know that I can cut back further and still have a good life.

As the years rush on by, I am thankful to continue to have good health while at the same time living in a country where I can have affordable and excellent medical care should I need it.

Above all I am thankful for my friends and family. Wishing all of you a Terrific Turkey Day!

Loi Khratong

Asia in general is known for it's vibrant festivals and Thailand is no exception. Amazing colorful events intimately tied to regional cultures, religious beliefs and historical traditions.

Two major celebrations in Thailand, approximately six months apart are Songkran and Loi Khratong. One I dearly love (Loi Khratong) and one that I dread when it is approaching (Songkran).

Dramatically opposed on the calendar, they are equally opposite in the experience. Two basic elements come into play--water & fire.

Songkran is in the Spring at the outset of the rainy season. It has come to global attention as "Asia's Water War" based on tourist hype. For up to sometimes a week, every time you step outside during daylight hours you risk getting soaked. That's the clue to why I'm not fond of this holiday.

However, in mid-November at the end of the rainy season comes Loi Khratong when farmers are giving thanks to the goddess of water. This you celebrate with fireworks and in the north with fire driven hot air rice paper balloons sent to heaven.

Water only comes in to the picture as the vehicle upon which to float your "Khratong" sending off all negativity of the past year hoping for a fresh new start. A "Khratong" is a small boat composed of banana leaves attached to a bamboo base to resemble a lotus blossom and then decorated with flowers. In the center one places a single candle and three joss sticks which you light just prior to floating.

Tahm Khratong, Loi Khratong

(Make a boat, Float a boat)

The festival lasts for three days and on the last two evenings there are parades, the final night being larger and more elaborate. Lavish floats, lovely Thai women carrying Khratongs, musicians featuring lots of drums and gongs, and various marching groups carrying banners and offerings.

All along the parade route there are vendors selling food, souvenirs, rice paper balloons and, of course, lovely Khratongs for those who didn't get a chance to make one. The sky is alive with the fiery balloons and fireworks exploding all around. Lots of color and noise, but only the boats get wet.

President-Elect Obama

After a long up-hill battle, we proved to the world...

Yes We Can and Yes We Did!

This is truly a wonderful day for America and for the world at large.


With a small popular margin and a large electoral vote the U.S. has elected the smart man as 44th President of the United States of America.


No longer must we apologize for our hostile attitudes. No longer do Americans need to hang their heads in sadness regarding U.S. administrative arrogance. We have sent a message loud and clear to the rest of the world that we still want to be part of the whole equation.

Our new President-elect, Barack Hussein Obama!!

My message to friends and family on this historic day...

I am so exuberant and joyful over the election results that I am barely coherent. This is truly a great day for America and the world.

As someone who, over 45 years ago, was picketing and marching for civil rights--the right of a black American to simply go order food at a lunch counter, to use a public toilet or drink from a public fountain, to ride where they chose on a bus--I would not have believed this moment would come in my lifetime.

What a wonderful experience to vote for a winning Black-American for the office of President and to feel that by joining the fight for civil rights I may have contributed in some way to bringing us to this point.

But beyond that, Americans have now chosen the focused, intelligent, articulate candidate for a change. I no longer have to wince when someone asks me what country I am from. I can hold my head high and say, yes, I'm American. We have sent a loud and clear message to the world that we want to come back from the radical fringe of society and join the community of decent honorable people. We have rejected the low road of hate and intolerance and instead have chosen openness and discussion; peace and hope for a better future.

The World is Watching

With the election so close I’ve been obsessively lurking on political message boards. I read on a newsvine board, where GOP neocons rant and rave invoking 4-letter expletives, a reference to Presidential IQ’s. Moderate to liberal Dems were accused of clustering in the low double digits by one insulting blogger.

What a hoot! Reminded me of a game I played last year at Christmas where we had a list of Presidential IQ’s from FDR up to GW and the challenge was to match them. I was off on most, but actually did win. There were two outliers that defied the averages. Taking those scores out of the summation, the lowest Democrat score is 10 points above the highest Republican score. (The two outliers, by the way, were LBJ and Richard Nixon. Tricky really was smart, which probably contributed to his paranoia which did him in at the end.)

For the record, Dems average is 162: Repubs is 107. Rather a dramatic difference!

Worse news for the GOP is that over the last three decades, the scores have been decreasing. Not a good trend.

Now I know you can argue that IQ is just a contrived arbitrary number, but it is one factor in the overall scheme of intelligent sentience accepted within the confines of historical US educational standards.

In TWO DAYS the US electorate gets to select the new Commander-in-Chief. I sent in my vote by registered mail over three weeks ago and I voted for the vibrant smart one. I didn’t have any IQ scores to go by, but looking at the bios and the educational background made my choice easy. Watching the campaigns as this election has progressed confirmed my choice LOUD & CLEAR.

So if you voted early, that’s great. If not go out on Tuesday and Vote Smart.

Yes We Can!! Obama/Biden ‘08

Political Positions

Both here in Thailand and my country of origin, 2008 is a year of political upheaval. I’m physically cut off from both, but that’s probably good. Emotionally, however, I am involved in both.

Down in BKK (Bangkok), the PAD (Peoples Alliance of Democracy) continues in its third month. It started just before I arrived back from my trip across Asia. Flying back from Athens I was in BKK less than two hours at Savarnabhumi airport—just long enough to clear immigration and catch a flight north. I had been reading about the PAD take over of the Parliament Building. As a guest in this country, I can only watch from the sidelines, so I knew better than to expose my old latent war protest alter ego to even be in the vicinity of a massive sit-in. Better for me to simply follow in the daily news and sympathize with my Thai friends, most of whom support PAD.

Back on the home front my emotional involvement goes even deeper with the historic event now taking place in less than one week. An event with reverberations that will be felt round the earth.

It’s been over 40 years since I had a candidate to vote for that I really believed in. I have been voting all my life for the lesser of two evils. I had hoped to support Bobby Kennedy in 1968. Having recently returned from my first overseas adventure of almost two years, I was newly educated in global perspective. But then we all know what happened that fateful year in history.

Living in San Francisco during the primary in 1972, it was easy to be both enthusiastic and optimistic about McGovern and I put in enough hours working for his campaign that I received a Western Union “Thank You” message over his signature the June night I returned home after getting out the vote successfully for him to be rewarded with a massive win in California. Unfortunately the national election in November did not go so well, but that Western Union message was a prized possession of mine through the "Weird Watergate" years reminding me that I had done my part attempting to avoid the chaos the country went through at that time.

But this time it’s different. I developed a formula* for the Obama Kool Aid all on my own, long before Barack Hussein Obama even knew he was going to run this election cycle. The minute I heard the “skinny guy with the funny name” give the key note address at the DNC convention in Boston, ’04, I said deep in my heart…I want to vote for this man, and I want it to be in the next election. I read both his books and looked into just who he is and I liked every thing about him. He is the composite of all the best candidates I’ve watched parade before us over the course of my six decade lifetime.

So now we are less than a week away from my dream candidate being my next President. As an American who has chosen to live outside the country in my retirement due to budget constraints (affordable health care availability being a big factor), I am a nervous wreck. I can’t be there as I was in 1972 to help get out the vote, but I refuse to believe that this time the Americans will reject the smart, competent one over the erratic, bad-tempered nasty old man.

I don’t want a maverick for my President. That may be fine in the Senate with 99 other folks to stabilize things. A little cyclone activity to stir everyone up may have its benefits there, but not at the level of Commander-in-Chief. I want stable, focused, meticulous attention to detail and organized consensus after all contributing factors are analyzed. Shoot from the hip worked great in the Wild West. It’s not a working formulae in the troubled world of the 21st Century.

If you care about the future of your country and the world at large, go out and vote for the team that brings real change and hope to all of us on planet earth. OBAMA/BIDEN ‘o8!!

*1/3 work, 1/3 commitment, 1/3 sacrifice with a dash of HOPE

More Memoirs of a Solo Traveler

It's now official. Book #2, If You Haven't Been Pinched...You Haven't Been to Rome, is now LIVE as the publisher likes to say and will soon be available. Estimated time 2-3 weeks. And after they told me I would have to pay if I wanted to include the index, it came through on the galleys at no charge. Yeah!

It's been four years since I published my first book, Safari na Paka, and I hope these new stories will be as well recieved.

How I ever came to write and publish stories of my travels is another story all in itself that goes directly back to my long time friend, Vicki Ramirez. But putting the history of it all aside, I am having fun reliving my years of travel through these stories. I do hope you will enjoy them.

Thai Tonal Tribulations

As great as some locales can be, no place is ever quite perfect. There is always some little nagging drawback. So just what might that snag be in Chiang Mai? In one simple word--LANGUAGE.

Pah-sah Thai (Thai language) is one of the world's major strongly tonal languages. What that means is that the slightest change in pitch can sound like gibberish to a native speaker. Since intonation is one of the first speech features to develop in childhood, it can also be greatly impaired by adulthood. Although I am not entirely tone deaf, as an old English-speaking geezer (a stress vs. tonal language) I constantly battle nuances of sound.

Add to that my history of being very vocal and outspoken about the necessity to learn a language if you intend to live in that country. Just trying to learn doesn't cut it. You have an obligation to learn it. No excuses were good enough and I was often adamant with my uncompassionate stance. So you can well imagine my frustration at not having yet learned anything beyond a few basic phrases. "Walk in my shoes!" How true it is. I've been in Chiang Mai too long for my excuses to hold up against my previous rhetoric.

That's the bad news. The good news is, I haven't given up trying yet. Once again I have started taking class. My two previous attempts were with a private tutor, and this time I am going for a new format--two hours of conversation every afternoon in a group of five other faranges. We are an international group well matched in our language level.

Hopefully I can achieve success, but in the meantime I have my ready list of excuses.

1) It is really, really hard. Just for comparison, Chinese has four tones, Thai has five.

2) My ears are old. I don't hear the tones.

3) Brain circuits are overloaded. (See #2 above.)

4) Social constraints. Local Thais often just stare at you trying to speak Thai. Or worse, they just start to giggle. It can be very intimidating.

5) Immersion constraints. Too much English is spoken in Chiang Mai.

I guess it boils down to a longevity issue. If I hang in long enough I will learn, and genetics are on my side with this one. My family--both sides--has an impressive history of longevity. Data available upon request.

I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Happy Hangouts

Stay anywhere more than 72 hours and you zero in on a few favorite hangouts. Depending upon your preferences, you will find places that fulfill your needs and where you feel comfortable.

Back in the 60's in San Francisco when I was young and idealistic, it was to North Beach I gravitated. That Bohemian attraction to artistic venues never left me. Nor did my personal taste for espresso (early a.m.) and white wine (late p.m.). I don't always have the option of adding creme de framboise to the white wine like I do in Paris, but I can adjust.

In Chiang Mai I have been lucky enough to find both within walking distance of my lodging.

House of Thai Thai Coffee

When I was still new here, I would walk the full length of Ratchadamnoen Rd. for my morning "Joe." A few hundred meters beyond Tha Pha Gate was JJ's with distinctly farang prices, but the espresso was reliably good and their croissants are, in my opinion, the best available in Chiang Mai.

The route took me directly by the Chiang Mai Language Center which is also Chiang Mai Adventure Travel. Sometime my first season here, Thai Thai Coffee Shop made it's debut in with the other two.

As an early riser, I passed it several times before they were open, until one morning I got a late start and decided to try their coffee and stay closer to home. I became an instant convert.

It's a very special place run by a wonderful local family. In addition to coffee drinks they have selection of food, both local dishes and light western meals. But it's the particular care they take with coffee is what this coffee lover appreciates. Only the best beans, stored properly and ground fresh immediately prior to use. Truly the best coffee in Chiang Mai at the lowest cost. They live up to the reputation of their sign, "Unforgetable Coffee."

Over the last two or three years other coffee places have both come and gone, but Thai Thai Coffee holds top honors. Chiang Mai even sports a Starbucks now near Tha Pha Gate, but you better be prepared to pay double if you chose that option.

Writers Club & Wine Bar

How convenient for me. This little gem is right on the street where I live on Ratchadamnoen Rd., about three blocks equivalent from my guesthouse. (And a few hundred meters from my coffee venue.)

Like my morning coffee place, they weren't yet open when I first started hanging out long term in Thailand. But it's been there for so long now I can't remember what was there before.

Owned and run by Bob, a British expat and his charming Thai wife, Tong. Bob Tilley was a freeland journalist for some 50 years+ and still at it. The ambiance is that of a writer's social group with a touch of the Bohemian.

Soon after they opened I noticed the sign, checked the menu and ventured in. They open shortly after noon and this was early afternoon--good time to stop for lunch. I so thoroughly enjoyed both the food, the conversation and the wine, I've been a regular there ever since.

Narrow and long with heavy wooden tables outside surrounded by a jungle of plants, while inside a lot of dark wood makes one feel at home right away. And books--lots of books--in two glassed-in book cases at the back in a corner with comfortable seating and lights to read by.

On one side is the long teak bar with an old manual early 1900's typewriter sitting prominently on one end. The overall feel is warm and cozy. Magazine racks near the bar with a variety of ferang publications--lots are British--but many are local. It's a readers paradise.

I usually stop by in the afternoons when it's quiet and I can enjoy a glass of wine while I read the newspapers. But on Friday evenings the place buzzes with activity as many of the local journalists and writers stop by for lively conversation.

It's been written up in international travel journals, and I consider it one of the premier spots in Chiang Mai. Chock dii!

Chiang Mai Chatter

¿Que hace? Qu'est-ce qui je fais? What do I do in Chiang Mai?

It's a question I'm asked often--and in many languages. Usually I just answer, "I live and enjoy life!!" But there are those who insist...exactly what do you do while you live and enjoy life. There is so much to tell, I almost don't know where to start.

A big reason to be in such a central global location taking advantage of it's low cost of living is to simplify options for my real passion in life--Solo Travel! I traveled often throughout my life and I'm not prepared to give it up yet. Therefore, many of my activities relate to travel in some way. Either I'm planning my next trip or writing up the last one.

Last year I spent a good deal of my time writing the new book I have coming out soon. This year I have been editing and prepping the book for publication. And for anyone out there who says that sounds like work and not play, it's a little of both. But in between my trips and all the work, I do play a lot.

If you've read my first book, you know I like to group stories into categories. So just what are these "fun" categories? They do fit nicely into life categories, i.e., lodging, nourishment and social contacts. One added element as an expat living in Thailand is the adventure of meeting visa requirements. That's a separate story all in itself. So right now we will stick to the three biggies, housing, food and friends.

For my housing I have chosen to live in a guesthouse in central Chiang Mai in the area comprising the old city, inside the moat near Wat Pra Singh. An advantage to that is, I have accessible public transport without the added expense of having to own. All that extra baht goes into the travel budget.

A serendipitous side benefit is that I meet lots of other travelers who invite me to come visit them when I am out "on the road." Definately a win-win situation from my point of view. Nothing can enhance a trip any more than having locals to connect with.

Food fun! This is such a big part of my life, I suspect I will have to do a separate posting to fully cover it. Chiang Mai, in addition to low cost Thai food, has a vast range of restaurants that offer lots of options for a palate such as mine that craves variety in my daily diet. I love to eat and eat well, and I can spend a lot of time in this arena.

So that leaves us with the social scene.

As part of a large expatiate community living in Chiang Mai I can have a huge circle of friends that includes both foreigners and locals. There is an expat club here that meets twice a month and many off-shoot special interest groups. I go regularly to the computer club, occasionally to the photo group, thinking about joining a group who meet once a month to discuss fabrics, have access to a writier's group and there are many other groups I can join if and when I make time for them.

Another big plus in Chiang Mai is the number of universities here that offer free concerts, seminars, out-reach groups...you name it. In short, there is something to fill everyone's needs.

Add to that the fact that Chiang Mai has the largest number of used book stores of almost any place on the planet. As a passionate voracious reader, I love it.

And this year, a huge time sink for me is the focus on the global fascination with the most critical Presidential race in my lifetime. All eyes are on America to do the right thing this time around. I'm a heavy "lurker" on political message boards watching the trends of support. Looking for the kernel of intelligent thought that I want to believe main stream America does possess. Hoping for the insight that will get Obama elected.

Look for separate subject postings soon to expand on activities here in Chiang Mai. Visas, food, language, books, lodging, local travel, festivals and other fun stuff.

It's called "The Good Life."